November 3, 2007

Basic Recipes - Infusions, Decoctions, Tinctures, Macerated Oils, Cream Base and Balm Base

Infusions, decoctions, tinctures, macerated oils, cream base and balm base. These are the basic building blocks that form the basis for other home recipes.

1. Infusions

An infusion is prepared like a tea, and it is the proper way to harness the properties of softer, green or flowering parts of a plant. Examples of suitable herbs for infusions are chamomile, lavender and rose petals. They are a simple method of including a particular herb, and can be used as a substitute for water in home recipes. Substituting for water is a great way to include a particlar herb suitable for your skin type or condition.

The amount of herb depends on the type of herb used, and the desired infusion strength. The standard measurement is 1 heaped teaspoon of dried herb for 1 cup of boiling water. If fresh herb is used instead of dried herb, double the amount.

The herb should be chopped and put into a teapot. Add boiling water and cover for 10 minutes, so as to avoid loss of volatile oils in the steam. Strain before use.

2. Decoctions

For woodier parts of plants like stems, roots, bark and seeds; decoctions are used. Examples of suitable herbs for decoctions are fennel and ginseng.

The amount of herb depends on the type of herb used, and the desired decoction strength. The standard measurement is 1 heaped teaspoon of dried herb for 1 cup of boiling water. If fresh herb is used instead of dried herb, double the amount.

The herb should first be mashed and put into a saucepan. Add water, cover and heat to a boil. Simmer for 10 minutes. Strain before use.

3. Tinctures

A tincture is the extraction of a herb, using a mixture of alcohol and water. The alcohol acts as a preservative, and tinctures can be stored up to a year. Examples of suitable herbs for tinctures are marigold, nettle and sage.

The ratio of herb to alcohol varies for each herb. High-proof alcohol should be used, preferably 100% proof, like high-proof vodka or rum.

Place the finely chopped herb inside a sealable jar and pour alcohol to cover completely. Seal the jar and store for 2 weeks in a dark, cool place. Shake the jar at least once a day. The alcohol should draw out the essence of the herbs. Strain the mixture through muslin, and then filter through an unbleached coffee filter. Store in a dark glass bottle away from sunlight, label clearly with name and date.

4. Macerated Oils

The volatile oils can be extracted from plants by soaking them in vegetable oils. The vegetable oil acts as a solvent in which the volatile oils and other plant material like color are contained. Macerated oils can be stored up to a year. Examples of suitable herbs for macerated oils are carrot, garlic and mullein.

There are 2 methods of preparation, namely the Sun Method and the Heating Method.

Sun Method
Place the finely chopped herb inside a sealable jar and pour high-quality vegetable oil to cover completely. Virgin olive oil, sweet almond oil and sunflower oil are good oils to use. Seal the jar and place under direct sunlight for 2 weeks. Shake the jar at least once a day. Strain the mixture and repeat using fresh herb, leave under sunlight for 2 weeks, shaking daily at least. Strain and store in a dark glass bottle, label clearly with name and date.

Heating Method
This is a quicker method, suitable for oils required for immediate use. Place the finely chopped herb in a bowl and pour high-quality vegetable oil to cover completely. Cover and heat the bowl over a pan of boiling water for 1 hour. Strain the mixture and repeat using fresh herb. Strain and store in a dark glass bottle, label clearly with name and date.

5. Cream Base

For external applications, a cream base can be used which contains the essential oils and tinctures. If refrigerated, it can be stored up to 2 months.

2 tsp beeswax
2.5 tsp cocoa butter
2 tbsp sweet almond oil
1 tbsp wheatgerm oil
3 tbsp spring water (or your own desired infusion suitable for your skin type and condition)
0.5 tbsp emulsifying wax

Place beeswax, cocoa butter and oils in a bowl over a saucepan of water. Heat until melted, and then remove from heat. Heat spring water and emulsifying wax in another saucepan, until the wax dissolves. Pour spring water mixture into the oils mixture, stirring constantly until cool. This forms the cream base. Finally add the essential oils or tinctures that you require. Store in a dark glass jar, label clearly with name and date, and refrigerate.

6. Balm Base

A balm base differs from a cream base in that it has a non-creamy, firmer consistency. If stored in an airtight jar, it can be stored up to 6 months.

2 tsp beeswax
3 tbsp almond oil
1 tbsp wheatgerm oil
2 tsp herb tincture
5 drops essential oil

Place beeswax and almond oil in a bowl over a saucepan of water. Heat until wax melts. Add tincture and wheatgerm oil, and stir slowly. Remove from heat to cool. Finally add the essential oils. Store in a dark glass jar, label clearly with name and date, and allow to set.

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November 1, 2007

Basic Equipment for Home Recipes

I've previously touched upon some home recipes for bug bites and a pumpkin mask. Before I start dishing out more home recipes, I'd like to list out the equipment and utensils needed for preparing these great recipes.

We don't need much specialized equipment, and most of the required utensils can already be found in many standard kitchens. The following list is sufficient to cover all but the most complicated of home recipes.

  • Atomizer spray
  • Bain-marie:Read more about a bain-marie. Also known as a double boiler, it uses indirect heat to soften ingredients gently. A simple bain-marie can be improvised easily. Place the ingredients to be heated in a heatproof bowl. Let it sit on a saucepan that is one-quarter to one-third full of water. As the water heats up, the bowl indirectly gets hotter too, and the warmth permeates to the ingredients to soften them.
  • Clingfilm
  • Cookie pan / bun tin
  • Fork ans spoon
  • Funnel
  • Glass bottles of various sizes
  • Glass bowls of various sizes
  • Glass jam jars
  • Grater
  • Hand whisk
  • Kettle
  • Knife
  • Labels and pen
  • Measuring jug
  • Measuring spoons
  • Muslin / cheesecloth
  • Pestle and mortar
  • Preserving jars of various sizes: Screw-top or sealable preserving jars are good for storing many home recipes. They can be found in most kitchen stores. Some have glass lids held in place by metal wires, which can be flipped over to seal the jar. Some also have rubber rings around the lids to provide an airtight seal. Creams and balms are best stored in wide-necked, dark-colored glass jars.
  • Saucepan
  • Strainer / sieve
  • Teapot
  • Unbleached coffee filter

This basic kit is enough for most needs. Prior to use, sterilize all equipment by immersing them in boiling water for about 15 minutes, especially if they are used to store the final product. Hands should also be thoroughly washed before handling the ingredients.

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October 30, 2007

10 Basic Steps to Beautiful Skin

A beauty regimen should be basic and uncomplicated. You don't want to overload your skin with products containing unpronounceable ingredients, using a difficult 42 step beauty system. Simplicity is the key. So to expand upon the earlier post on how to wash your face, here are 10 basic steps for holistic skin care.

1. Cleanse not Strip

Cleansing should remove oil and dirt from your skin, without stripping away the natural and beneficial skin oils. It also shouldn't alter the skin's slightly acidic pH level. Avoid using soap on your face because its alkalinity causes pH imbalances, irritation and skin tautness. Some personal research is required to finding an appropriate cleanser for your skin type. Try natural cleansers with coconut-derived fatty acids, which don't produce much lather but can still remove oil and dirt effectively without irritation.

After cleansing, apply toner to maintain pH balance. Toners also contain nourishing ingredients like essential oils which are beneficial to the skin.

2. Exfoliate

Exfoliation should be done regularly to slough off dead skin, and reveal the younger and healthier-looking skin beneath.

For exfoliation using chemical methods, common chemical agents are salicylic acid, glycolic acid, fruit enzymes and citric acid. For deeper exfoliation using higher concentrations (about 30%), please consult a dermatologist. Over-the-counter products come in lower concentrations (about 5%).

For exfoliation using mechanical means, avoid harsh exfoliating scrubs containing walnut shells or apricot seeds, as these may rupture fragile skin. Instead use scrubs with a milder physical agent like jojoba beads.

3. Fortify

Your skin needs moisture and proper nutrients. Organic face oils and serums help to fortify and protect the skin. They can even work on oily skin as they don't cause acne. Due to their smaller molecular structure, oils are also more easily absorbed into the skin than moisturizing creams.

Moisturizing creams and lotions are another option to effectively hydrate the skin. They work by providing moisture and forming a barrier to prevent water loss. They should be applied after a bath while the skin is still damp.

4. Sun Exposure

Healthy tan is any oxymoron. There's nothing healthy about a tan, which is actually your skin's response to the damaging effects of the sun. The tan is a result of your skin's defense mechanism, in an attempt to repair the damaged cells. It is essentially your body's cry for help. Overexposure to the sun increases your body's production of harmful free radicals, and accelerates aging. Wrinkles, dark spots, rough skin and other signs of aging are associated with excessive sunlight.

Use natural sunblocks with titanium dioxide or zinc oxide to protect against UV rays. Synthetic sunblocks are easier to rub into the skin but they contain many chemical ingredients that cause irritation. Also use shades to protect the eyes, and look cool too!

5. Environment

Air pollution damages skin by increasing the production of harmful free radicals. It also contributes to a variety of respiratory ailments. But not everyone is fortunate enough to work close to nature in pollution-free settings; most of us work in busy cities. So try to minimize exposure to air pollution. In certain Asian countries with extreme levels of traffic and air pollution, it's not uncommon to wear air filter face masks.

Dry air, wind, and cold also depletes the skin of essential moisture, resulting in a rough texture and fine lines. Carrying a bottle of floral water in your handbag can help. Generously mist your skin throughout the day. Moisture loss is reduced, and the aromatic ingredients are also very refreshing.

6. Diet, Smoking and Alcohol

A balanced diet rich in fruits and vegetables is not only good for the health, but great for the skin as well. They contain potent antioxidants that protect against the damaging effects of free radicals. Drink lots of water, about 6 to 8 glasses daily to keep your body and skin well hydrated.

We all know the harmful effects of smoking and drinking. Smoking, in particular, is notorious for rapidly accelerating the aging process. I've never met any long-time smoker who looks younger, or who even looks her age. Try to quit smoking, or at least cut down. Not just for beauty reasons, but for health, financial and social reasons as well. Cigarettes aren't cheap, and nobody likes smelling like an ashtray. Alcoholic beverages dehydrates the skin. So if you must drink, then supplement by taking lots of water. Drink about 2 glasses for every glass of alcohol consumed.

7. Facials

Visit your local spa for a good facial, and to get skin care advise from their beauticians. This should be done at least 4 times annually, with each seasonal change. Though the pampering you get at spas can't be beat, facials can also be done at home. I'll eventually be posting articles on this. So stay tuned!

8. Sleep

We need 6 to 8 hours sleep daily. The body and mind need time to rest, recover and regenerate. Look how gorgeous Sleeping Beauty was.

9. Exercise

Regular exercise increases blood circulation and delivery of nutrients to skin cells, washing away potentially damaging toxins. It also provides your skin the optimum conditions for producing collagen, which are the support structures that help prevent wrinkles and lines. A small amount of exercise, about a half hour daily, is sufficient to yield benefits. If you aren't exercising at all, then you should! Slowly work exercise into your routine, at a pace you're comfortable with. You can go for a brisk walk or do stretches in the morning, or engage in evening aerobics. It's good for the body, makes your skin glow, and it's fun too!

10. Stress

Stress can cause a variety of skin conditions. Acne is the most common. Eczema, psoriasis and rosacea are also sensitive to stress levels. You may have noticed that skin ailments flare up just before a big event. Then when you go for a stress-free holiday, your skin magically improves.

Try to avoid stressful situations. This may not be possible for the average person with family, friends and work; which are the common contributors of stress. Techniques like meditation, aromatherapy or yoga are very helpful in curbing stress.

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October 28, 2007

What are Free Radicals and Antioxidants?

Free Radicals. We hear this a lot in skin care circles. But what the heck are they? The first time I heard the term, political revolutionaries came to mind: Viva la Revolucion …

The dictionary definition doesn't help either.

Free Radical: an especially reactive atom or group of atoms that has one or more unpaired electrons

What does this have to do with skin care? Well, the free radicals that we have to worry about are the reactive oxygen species. Because these free radicals are so reactive, they can adversely affect our skin structures. They reduce the skin's firmness and elasticity, and rapidly accelerate the aging process. Wrinkles, sagging and other signs of aging appear prematurely.

Free Radicals and Antioxidants

So where do these damaging free radicals come from? Free radicals are produced by our bodily cells naturally, as a byproduct of necessary biochemical reactions. So there's nothing we can do about this. Free radical formation can also be increased through excessive sunlight, pollution, stress and especially smoking. This is why smokers age quickly. Have no fear though … this is where antioxidants come in. Antioxidants are naturally produced by our bodies too, and are supplemented by certain foods we eat, and by skin care products with antioxidant ingredients. Antioxidants fight free radicals by preventing them from harmfully reacting with our cells. Antioxidants also reduce free radical production in our bodies.

Even though antioxidants are our natural antidote to free radicals, our antioxidant levels decrease as we get older. When free radicals overtake antioxidant levels, this leads to the normal signs of aging.

External Sources of Antioxidants

  • Vitamins A, C and E
  • Fruits and vegetables
  • Green tea
  • Nutritional supplements
  • Topical skin care products

So there you have it. A basic introduction to Free Radicals and Antioxidants.

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October 26, 2007

Harmful Ingredients to Avoid

The skin is our largest organ, with a surface area of about two square meters. Our skin is not an impenetrable barrier, and many drugs are administered via the skin. Take nicotine and hormone replacement patches, for example. Sebastian Parsons, CEO of Dr. Hauschka Natural Skin Care, states that the average woman absorbs 14 kg (30 lb) of moisturizing ingredients into the bloodstream over 60 years!

We should definitely be discerning in what we apply onto our bodies. Here's a list of ingredients to avoid.

DEA, MEA, TEA
These are acronyms for diethanolamine (DEA), monoethanolamine (MEA), and triethanolmine (TEA). Quite a mouthful, I know! They are common foaming agents used in shampoos, soaps and body washes. They cause allergic reactions and affect hormone function.

Artificial Colours

Some artificial colours are carcinogenic, like D&C Orange 5, D&C Orange 17, D&C Red 9, D&C Red 19, FD&C Blue 1, FD&C Red 40, FD&C Yellow 5 and FD&C Yellow 6. They can also cause dermatitis and irritation upon skin contact. It's best to scrutinize the ingredients of rainbow-coloured products, or avoid them altogether.

Formaldehyde
These are preservatives known to cause dermatitis and other skin reactions, asthma and migraines. Examples of formaldehyde-derived preservatives are imidazolidinyl urea and DMDM hydantoin.

Parabens
These are another type of preservative. Examples are butyl-, ethyl- and propylparaben. They may cause allergic reactions to some. Research suggests a connection between parabens, and breast cancer and male reproductive problems.

Petrochemicals
Many skin care products, even the big-name ones, are derived from petrochemicals. Examples of petrochemicals are paraffin, mineral oil and isopropyl alcohol. Ingredients with prefixes or suffixes like propyl-, methyl-, eth-, -ene are usually petroleum-based. These compounds can cause skin irritations, allergies and reduce the skin's ability to breathe. From an environmental standpoint, we should also reduce our reliance on limited fossil-fuel resources, and instead use naturally-derived alternatives.

Fragrance
Synthetic fragrances can cause skin irritation, hyperpigmentation, dizziness or nausea. Note that products labelled "fragrance free" may have chemicals added to mask the scent. Instead look for  products with essential oils as the scent source, or those labelled "natural fragrance".

Propylene Glycol
This is a common moisture-carrying agent in skin care products. Normally derived from petroleum, though it can also be produced from seaweed or vegetable glycerine. It can cause rashes and other skin damage, kidney and liver problems.

SLS
Also known as sodium lauryl sulphate. Its degreasing properties are used to remove dirt from skin and hair. It irritates the skin, and can form carcinogenic nitrogen compounds when combined with other ingredients.

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October 23, 2007

How to Wash your Face

Upon re-reading my posts, I feel that it doesn't have much structure to it. Well, I guess that can be attributed to my newbie-ness in blogging. ;-)

Ok, so I think it's best to start from the beginning. I'll try to post some basic articles, which can hopefully serve as an introduction to those new to organic beauty care. Maybe the organic connoisseurs may even learn a thing or two, or they can chime in to add something useful, or to correct me if I'm wrong. Hint, hint … please comment. By no means am I an expert on organic skin care. I'm still learning about this wonderful field just like many others.

Today I'll talk about something we all take for granted: Washing the face. Even a kid knows how to wash his face. This would probably be the introductory chapter in Skin Care 101. But here are some pointers anyway.

You should avoid washing your face too much. Excessive washing strips your face of an adequate layer of oil which is needed to protect it. So those with dry skin should only need to wash their face once daily, while others with oily skin can wash two or three times a day.

  1. Start by splashing lukewarm water on your face. This dilates the pores for deeper cleansing.
  2. Apply a small amount of cleanser, about the size of a pea, onto your face. Gently rub it around your face to work up a lather. You can also use a scrub pad but avoid this if you have very sensitive skin. I personally have sensitive skin and I simply find it more convenient to just use my fingertips. Heck, maybe it's because I'm a tad lazy too!
  3. Rinse your face with cool water. Cool water is refreshing and it also closes up the pores.
  4. Pat dry.

That's it. Simple, huh? :-)

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October 20, 2007

8 Organic Spas with a Website

Don't we all just love going to spas? We enjoy being pampered and getting beauty treatments. Especially if they're organic. I did a simple search for organic spas with an online presence, and I compiled a small list. I haven't tried any of them though, and I'm not endorsing these spas.

If any of these organic spas are around your area, you can click the links to find out what they have to offer. If you like what you read, and the prices are reasonable, why not give them a shot?

  1. Priti Organic Spa (New York)
  2. RA Organic Spa (Burbank, California)
  3. Mehndi Salon and Spa (Aurora, Illinois)
  4. Always at Peace Organic Spa (Downtown Plano, Texas)
  5. Gaia Spa (La Jolla, California)
  6. GreenLeaf Therapies (New Haven, Connecticut)
  7. Lavender Fields (Stockton, California)
  8. Soul Reflexions (Vancouver, British Columbia)
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October 18, 2007

Tea Tree Oil and Jojoba Oil

Adding on to the earlier post on coconut oil and sweet almond oil, let me briefly introduce 2 other organic oils: tea tree oil and jojoba oil.

Tea Tree Oil

Tea tree oil has historically been used by the Australian aborigines. It is a powerful antiseptic,and is thus effective against infections, cuts, bruises, burns and bug bites. It's also useful against acne, dandruff, boils, scabies, thrush, ringworm, atlethe's foot and lice. It can penetrate the skin, which helps reduce swelling, acts as a pain killer and as a disinfectant.

Jojoba Oil

Jojoba oil closely resembles human sebum, and can thus be applied on skin anywhere. It's an effective moisturizer, lip balm, body oil and hair conditioner. It helps reduce wrinkles and other signs of aging. It's also ideal for curbing acne because its resemblance to sebum tricks the body into producing less oil. The antiseptic qualities also prevent acne breakouts.

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October 16, 2007

Difference between Organic and Natural

Many users of organic products seem to use the terms organic and natural interchangeably. I'm not a stickler for semantics, but those words actually have slightly different meanings.

Natural ingredients have nature as the ingredients' source. They are unaltered, untreated and not artificial. On the other hand, ingredients labelled organic have previously been certified by an organic certification body. This certifying body has ensured that the organic ingredients were cultivated without using synthetic fertilizers, pesticides and other synthetic chemicals like plant hormones or livestock feed additives.

In short, an organic ingredient is a natural ingredient but a natural ingredient may not be organic, since it could have been derived from methods that were not certified organic. The problem is that some unscrupulous companies freely label their products as being organic, even without proper certification. This propagates the labelling confusion among consumers.

Even for products certified organic there are three different levels, causing further confusion.

1. "100% organic" label
This is for products composed entirely of certified organic ingredients.

2. "Organic" label
This is for products with at least 95% certified organic ingredients.

3. "Made with organic ingredients" label
This is for products with at least 70% certified organic ingredients.

Products with the above labels can also display the logo of their approving certification body. Products with less than 70% organic ingredients cannot display these labels, but can merely mention it in their ingredient statement.

The differences in the organic labels due to the varying organic compositions are seemingly subtle, especially to a casual user. In particular the "Made with organic ingredients" label for 70% organic composition, blurs the distinction between organic and natural. This further propagate the confusion between organic and natural products.

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October 14, 2007

Coconut Oil and Sweet Almond Oil

There are many other organic skincare ingredients, in addition to our earlier post on shea butter, ginseng and sage. Today I'll talk about two organic oils, namely coconut oil and sweet almond oil.

Coconut Oil

Pure virgin coconut oil is a great natural ingredient for skin lotions. It provides protection against destructive free radicals. Liver spots and blemishes, due to age can be prevented. Coconut oil can also penetrate deep into the skin, and acts as a barrier against overexposure to the sun. It tightens and strengthens the skin to reduce sagging and wrinkles. Furthermore, the beneficial effects of coconut oil are not short-lived, and it can bring back a youthful appearance. It assists in shedding away the dull outer skin layers, enabling a smoother, more radiant complexion.

Coconut oil can also be used as an excellent hair conditioner, and it is used widely in many organic spas. Hair becomes softer and more manageable, and dandruff problems can even be cured.

Sweet Almond Oil

Sweet almond oil makes a great moisturizer and it conditions the skin. It's good as a massage oil since it lubricates well but doesn't penetrate. It's a reliable protectant, and is often used to protect the skin around babies' diapers. It reduces swelling from dermatitis, eczema and psoriasis. Itches, dryness, soreness and burns can also be relieved.

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